Iceland – the land of fire and ice. But you could also say Iceland – the land of colorful contrasts, the land of rainbows, the land of the Northern Lights, the land of water, or if you're on the ring road: Iceland – the land of parking fees...
A brief recap of my first month in this multifaceted country.
Table of Contents
New letters
Here is a quick recap of the new letters:
In my report on the Faroe Islands, I forgot to mention that letters with accents should be pronounced, e.g. Ísland, Þórsmörk, etc.
General Information
When flying to Iceland, you will land at Keflavík Airport, about 50 km from Reykjavík. There is also an airport in Reykjavík, but it is very small and only intended for domestic flights. So don't be surprised if you enter Reykjavík when booking your flight and the abbreviation is KEF. From there, shuttle services are available to the capital. Public transportation is only by bus; there are no trains or subways in Iceland.
Iceland is part of the EU roaming area, so I didn't need to buy a new SIM card. The currency of Iceland is the Icelandic króna – 100 ISK ~ €0.70 (as of August 2025). Food prices are significantly higher than on the mainland, expect at least a 50% to 100%+ surcharge. Tap water in Iceland is of highest quality, but it is very important to only cook/drink cold water! Iceland has so much geothermal energy that it is also used to heat water. This means that hot water always has a sulfur smell and is not suitable for consumption. Even if you want to make coffee/tea, always start with cold water!
The diverse highlands can mostly be reached via highland roads, known as F-roads. By law, you must drive a 4x4 vehicle on these F-roads. Not all F-roads are equally difficult; some are in very poor condition but do not cross any rivers, while others are in “very good” condition but have very difficult river crossings. F-roads are always gravel roads! It is very important to always check the condition of the F-road before driving on it! (safetravel.is for the most important information) Even if the weather is very good, you should check the road conditions beforehand; you don't want to drive 80 km only to turn back because of a river crossing that is too large. The most commonly used car in Iceland is probably a Dacia Duster – it can cross small rivers, but you should always check the depth of medium-sized rivers beforehand; don't even try to cross large rivers, as you need a specially modified vehicle and you should only cross extreme rivers on a booked tour. In addition, F-roads are usually only open from mid-May to mid-September, depending on the weather.
Speaking of cars, there are many car rental companies located right at Keflavík Airport. Lotus Car Rental is the only provider that covers all damage with comprehensive insurance – even damage that can occur when crossing rivers. Of course, this makes it more expensive. Important to note: even if you have comprehensive insurance, the interior is never covered! For all smokers, don't smoke in the car. In addition, the insurance partner can withdraw in cases of gross negligence, e.g., accidents under the influence of alcohol.
I opted for Blue Car Rental, which is a little cheaper and has fantastic customer support. Blue Car also has regular offers and very good promo codes, so just keep an eye out. As in the Faroe Islands, there are usually subsidiaries and Iceland Car Rental belongs to Blue Car but is even cheaper. There, I also opted for a Dacia Duster with comprehensive insurance and additional roadside assistance. This saved me around €500. Nevertheless, Iceland is expensive and cheap is a rarity. With all the tricks I found, the rental car for 60 days costs around €4,500... Yeah, a small taste of the prices.
My experience
Week 1
Iceland, the third country on my northern expedition. As already mentioned, I am exploring this island for a full 60 days – from mid-August to mid-October. This means that, in theory, I have a month exploring the highlands and going on beautiful hikes and I can spend a month hunting for the Northern Lights. The Northern Lights can be seen from the end of August onwards, when the days start to get shorter. However, the best two months are October and March, when it gets dark earlier and it's not deep winter.
For the first time on my travels, I landed in bright sunshine and temperatures were still at a summer high of up to 22 °C. I was able to enjoy this sunshine for 2.5 days, after which my usual rain streak caught up with me... Blue Car is about a 10-minute walk from the airport. This time I have comprehensive insurance; that’s why my tour was very short. Liquids checked, and now I have to get used to the almost new Dacia Duster 2024 (14,500 km). In the Faroe Islands, I drove an automatic, and in Austria, I have an old manual. So, the almost new clutch was a feeling I had never experienced so intensely before... After the first few bumpy kilometers, I arrived in the capital of Iceland – Reykjavík. There I spent two nights at Baron’s Hostel. Paradoxically, hostel nights in the capital are the cheapest. In Reykjavík you can stay for around €40. As soon as you leave this city you usually pay around €60 for a night in a hostel. Of course, campsites are cheaper.
Reykjavík is a “modern” and “cosmopolitan” capital city. There are historic old buildings, mainly villas, but Reykjavík is not littered with modern skyscrapers. There is a lot of street art and you see lots of rainbow flags. You get that capital city vibe, but you're not intimidated by towering skyscrapers. I can't describe it any better than that; you can't complain about Reykjavík. Hallgrimskirkja and Perlan are must-see.
Once I've stocked up on supplies and accessories, I head straight along the Golden Circle to Gullfoss – a mighty sight that can be seen without paying parking fees. Almost every attraction along the Ring Road (Highway 1) and the Golden Circle have parking fees. There is no entrance charge, but parking fees range from ISK 750 to ISK 1500 (~€5.25 to €10.50) for 3-4 hours or from midnight to midnight (August 2025). This makes Gullfoss a real exception. I also spent my first night in the car there. Contrary to popular belief, Iceland has not put the Everyman’s Rights into their constitution, like Sweden! Normally, there are explicit signs indicating that you are not allowed to stay overnight in a parking lot. I didn't find any such signs at Gullfoss, and after I left in the morning, I didn't have any problems. Nevertheless, you should be careful. Anyway, since I wanted to spend the summer season in the highlands, I decided to experience what is probably the most famous multi-day hiking trail in Iceland.
Laugavegur
Until Álftavatn
Laugavegur is a 54 km long hiking trail that runs through the heart of the Icelandic highlands. It usually takes 3 to 4 days to complete, depending on your pace. Huts must be booked in advance, while campsites can be paid for directly on site. My plan was not only to hike Laugavegur, but also the almost directly adjacent extension Fimmvörðuháls (24 km). You usually start in Landmannalaugar and end in Þórsmörk. However, if you don't want to walk back the same way, you must book transportation. There are plenty of options, but unfortunately none of them are cheap ~ 10,000 ISK. I took a highland bus from the village of Hella (there is free parking there). The highland bus also arrives in Landmannalaugar around noon. The Fimmvörðuháls extension ends at the famous Skógafoss waterfall and from there there is a public bus to Hella. My plan was to go to Álftavatn (24 km) on the first day. Then to Emstrur (16 km), the next day finish Laugavegur in Þórsmörk (14 km) and immediately start the first half of the extension to Baldvinsskáli (15 km, 3 km from Þórsmörk to the start). On the fourth day I will walk the last 12 km to Skógafoss. Hopefully in time that I don't miss the public bus. Huts are very expensive in Iceland, but the first two stages are marked as 4/5 hours each, because of that my first day will be up to 10 hours long. That's why I booked a night at the Álftavatn hut for 15,800 ISK ~ 110€!!! (just a mattress, no food/shower). That was my plan, although I don't like to walk more than 25 km in a day (because of my knee), I would have to walk about 30 km on the third day. I packed my backpack, booked transportation and checked the weather again. The forecast wasn't ideal, but you shouldn't rely too much on the weather report in Iceland – or so they say; ha ha...
In the morning, I had a pleasant bus ride with great weather, but as soon as I got off the bus, gray clouds covered the last rays of sunshine on my hike. Half an hour later, it started to drizzle lightly, and the gentle breeze began to feel more and more like a growing barrier. After an hour, I was completely soaked and the fine raindrops felt like whiplashes on my face. My straight gait leaned more and more to the left so that the gusts of wind wouldn't knock me over to the right. My fun and joy had disappeared and the landscape, engulfed in thick fog, offered me no view. It was pure hatred that gave me the strength I needed. It was the worst hike I have ever experienced...
The defined route is also only suitable for good weather, because you often have to walk up and down small hills, despite being somewhat sheltered from the weather between this sea of hills in the “riverbed” and crossing the path again and again anyway. A little tip: in bad weather, look ahead a little so that you don't spend the whole time going up and down unnecessarily when you could stay on level ground. There are already many footprints on these alternative routes. Shortly before Álftavatn, you must wade through a small river. After 5.75 hours, I reached my first destination. Although I had “only” walked 24 km and climbed 500 meters, I was completely exhausted. In the hut I sat in the entrance hall for half an hour. Then I asked the ranger for the weather report. Today: rain and wind up to 21 m/s ~ 75.5 km/h. During the night, the rain will get heavier and the wind will reach speeds of over 100 km/h at times. The next morning, there will be light rain but winds of up to 80 km/h. Yeah, wonderful prospects...
From Álftavatn
After a very restful night, I had a choice. Either turn back: 24 km with an elevation gain of over 500 meters or continue with only a minimal climb. Therefore, I decided to continue, but I was still unsure about the distance. If you want to spend a night in a tent in Álftavatn, you should walk about 3 km further to Hvanngil. There are better sheltered campsites there. The trail to Emstrur is mainly flat with a few steeper descents. You must wade across a small river to get to Hvanngil. After Hvanngil, there is a larger river crossing. You should not cross the river directly at the F-road but rather walk 200 m upstream. Since I was already completely soaked, I decided not to bother changing my shoes. The water is about under knee height. After about 4 hours, I reached my next destination. In Emstrur, I checked the weather forecast again and it wasn't going to get any better the next morning...
That's why I decided to hike to Þórsmörk today. Again, it's mostly flat, but this time there are more steep descents. The weather was bad, and about 3 km before Þórsmörk, there is another river crossing. Normally it is not too difficult, but the continuous rain made it a challenge. You must wade through quite a few small streams, and in some places the water was up to my knees. The last few kilometers are through the forest, and the weather improved. When I arrived in Þórsmörk, I could really feel my left knee, but I was just glad to have made it. Although I would have really liked to hike the Fimmvörðuháls extension, I decided to take a highland bus (ISK 13,400) to Hella. F249 is one of the most difficult highland roads. In good weather, you might be able to get to the parking lot just before Þórsmörk, but the last river crossing is prohibited for rental cars and is classified as extreme. After the bus crossed this river, I could understand this classification. There are two flexible bridges for pedestrians. Nevertheless, I would not recommend anyone to try the F249, it is really a difficult road.
Back at the car, I quickly checked the weather forecast. It wasn't going to get any better and the next morning a severe weather warning was issued for southern Iceland and the central highlands, where I was. Well, at the end of August, I won't be setting foot in the highlands anymore.
Week 2
Disappointed I adjusted my route. Because Iceland was completely shrouded in rain and only the lonely Westfjords were blessed with sunshine, I decided to drive 700 km west. On this trip I was confronted with fuel prices for the first time. 1 liter of gasoline costs about 300 ISK and 1 liter of diesel is about +5%, just a pleasant ~ €2.10 per liter (August 2025)... Fortunately, I can get about 900 to 1000 km with my 50-liter tank.
The Westfjords is the “past” Iceland. Fewer people, very quiet, and yet beautiful scenery. You quickly notice that there are fewer people as soon as you leave the urban centers behind and sheep become your only traffic. There are also plenty of short hikes, but since my knee needed a break anyway, I didn't stop that often. If you go to Látrabjarg during puffin season, you're sure to find lots of these clowns. It's one of the few places where you can still find many breeding pairs (approx. 20,000). Only one egg is laid per season. A pair may have three to four seasons... That's why these habitats really need to be protected. As it was already the end of August, I could only watch seagulls.
My journey along the Westfjords finally took me to Iceland's second largest city. The city with the heart as its emblem – Akureyri. With a population of around 19,000, it ranks second only to Reykjavík. In Akureyri, I booked myself a hostel for two nights. Coincidentally, I arrived at the city's birthday celebration and was able to enjoy a small concert on Saturday evening.
Week 3
Until Landmannalaugar
Near Akureyri there is one of the two highland roads connecting northern and southern Iceland – the F26. The other road is the F35, which starts at Gullfoss. Important: The F35 is a simple F-road, while the F26 is a moderate route with at least one medium river crossing, but depending on conditions, there might be two or three. Because I wanted to drive to the famous Valley of Tears, which is located on the easy F208 North and there the F26 ends, a perfect route. However, I assumed that the F26 was the easy F-road and the F35 the “difficult” one. Those who can read have a clear advantage...
The F26 is over 250 km long and there is no possibility of refueling or buying food. I drove from the north, which means you have the most difficult river crossing, Hagakvislar, first. You've already been on this road for over 100 km when you come to a relatively wide riverbed. It had been raining for the last few days, so all the water levels were higher and the current was stronger. Before driving on the F26, it's best to call the ranger at the Nýidalu hut and ask about the conditions. Of course, I didn't do that because I thought I was on the easier road. But after about 60 km, I began to question this assumption. There was no cell phone reception, so I was in the dark. Anyway, at Hagakvislar I looked at the landscape. Luckily for me, there were quite a few small sandbanks above the water, so this crossing wasn't too difficult. Without these sandbanks, I would have certainly turned back. Shortly before the Nýidalu hut comes the next, normally “easier” river crossing. In my condition, this was relatively difficult. From north to south, you drive directly into the river and the last 20 meters are just a normal gravel road, but in my case, there were puddles of water. The longer I stared at the river, the more my adrenaline rose. I was unsure and if Hagakvislar hadn't been behind me, I probably wouldn't have made this crossing. A moment later, I was standing at Nýidalu Hut and took a short break. A lot of water had run out of the car. But I still wasn't at my destination. Fortunately, there was only one more small crossing, but it was certainly 0.50 m deep. When I arrived at the Valley of Tears, I checked the F26 again and my suspicion was confirmed that I had confused the difficulty of the F35 and F26. Once again, the F26 is not an easy road!!! and you should at least drive a Toyota Land Cruiser to be able to tackle it without anxiety. My Duster made it, but it was more luck than skill.
Since the weather is supposed to stay nice tomorrow, I've decided to drive to Landmannalaugar via the F208 North. The F208 North is probably the busiest F-road in Iceland. There are no river crossings until just before Landmannalaugar, but the road is in poor condition. Shortly before Landmannalaugar, you turn onto the F224. On the last few meters before the campsite in Landmannalaugar, there is a river crossing that has been nicknamed “The Puddle.” Many cars have gotten stuck there. There is also a parking lot in front of this puddle and you only have to walk 500 meters to the campsite. Up to this puddle, the F208 North and F224 are easy highland roads. The F208 South on the other hand, is a moderate highland road with several medium river crossings.
From Landmannalaugar
After successfully surviving the F26, I drove to the puddle with great confidence. But as they say, pride comes before a fall; I drove into the riverbed too fast and the sloshing waves clogged my intake manifold and “The Puddle” claimed another victim. Yeah, unpleasant...
I moved all my electronic devices to higher ground and went to the emergency station, feeling ashamed. It was a blessing in disguise, as the water in the puddle is very pleasant because it comes from a geothermal source. Landmannalaugar has a dedicated emergency team and my car was towed out of the puddle relatively quickly. If this had happened on any other highland road, I would probably have had to wait at least three hours for a tow. Once the water had drained away and I pressed the accelerator pedal often enough in neutral, the car was driving again. Nevertheless, I spent the rest of the day scooping out water and drying things. My biggest loss was half of my horn sheets, because I left the instrument case down in the footrest... After a very unpleasant night, I immediately called Blue Car and was sent to Selfoss. Without any confidence, I approached “The Puddle” again, but this time I drove slowly and the crossing was absolutely no problem. It's embarrassing what happened to me yesterday...
In Selfoss, I suggested an oil change. Fortunately, the mechanic found no water in the oil. Afterwards, the computer was briefly connected and it seems like I may have flooded the telemetry unit. Three cables have a short circuit or direct contact with ground. Otherwise, no errors. It could have been worse. After another phone call with Blue Car, I was sent to Reykjavík to change cars. Everything worked out fine. Now I'm driving a 2019 Dacia Duster, “unfortunately” a diesel. Diesel is very pleasant to drive, but as already mentioned, the expensive fuel is now another 5% more expensive; but stupidity must be punished. I don't know how the 2024 Duster is doing. So far, no additional bill or further information.
And so my second expedition through Iceland begins.
Another round
After “losing” two beautiful days due to my own stupidity, I drove to Vík. The weather is supposed to be bad for the next two days, so I took a short break. I was cheered up by a beautiful sunset one evening and the next morning I drove to the famous Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon. While I was walking through the canyon, the weather was nice, but as soon as I packed up my camera, it started to rain. Back at the car, I checked the weather forecast again. Rain throughout Iceland, but maybe half a day of sun in Kerlingarfjöll. Just a short >300 km apart. I drove down the south coast in the rain once again and after a long drive I arrived in Kerlingarfjöll. My route planning isn't that important in Iceland, but it would have been wise to include Kerlingarfjöll after Gullfoss... They are only 80 km apart. From Gullfoss, you take the F35, which isn't too difficult, but the condition of the road gets worse the longer you drive towards Kerlingarfjöll.
The last few kilometers, you turn onto the F347. There is a mini river crossing on the way. Most of the time, there is an almost complete dry track through the riverbed. After my faux pas in Landmannalaugar, this mini crossing was very welcome. To this day, I still avoid F-roads with normal river crossings; I've lost my confidence... With all the rain forecast for the near future, I would never have had the option of driving into the highlands again anyway.
Just before Kerlingarfjöll you come to the Highland Base, which was converted into a luxury resort in 2023, but there is still a campsite for ISK 3,400 (August 2025) per night. As an exception, this should be booked in advance. From the Highland Base, the road becomes very steep and there are also deep trances in the road. I deliberately drove in four-wheel drive mode to the parking lot at Kerlingarfjöll. The road was steep and there were often sharp rocks – two other vehicles had a flat tire.
Kerlingarfjöll is an active geothermal area, be prepared for the smell of sulfur. There are many small hiking trails there and if the weather would have been better, you could have a truly magnificent view. I liked to have climbed Fannborg Peak, but I couldn't see the summit in the fog and it was already covered in snow. Therefore, I ended up taking the classic roundway. I walked counterclockwise and there were a few small muddy spots. Shortly before the end of the circular route, half of the path was covered in mud and I felt like traversing the Rakiura Great Walk. gefühlt.
Fortunately, there is a cleaning station at the Highland Base. The temperature dropped slightly below freezing during the night and I woke up to snowflakes in the morning. That's why I wanted to get back on a paved road as quickly as possible.
Week 4
Even though I would have liked to visit Thor's Valley (Þórsmörk) again, the weather is once more completely miserable. In the second week of September, a few highland roads were unofficially closed. The water level is still very high, so I assume that most F-roads will be officially closed from September 15. I drove down the south coast again, but this time I went all the way to the east. I had a reasonably pleasant evening in Skaftafell and was able to go on the classic hike to Svartifoss. Vatnajökull is the largest glacier in Iceland and one of the largest in Europe. There are many beautiful day trips to be had there and several films have used this scenery. But after my Laugavegur experience, I'm not motivated to hike in the pouring rain anymore. But maybe there will be a few more hours of sunshine at the end of the summer season.
A glimpse into the future
My plan was to cover a lot of kilometers on foot during the first month. Yeah, that didn't work out so well. I'm going to do one lap around the ring road and afterwards do an extra lap around Highway 1 in the second month. This time, I hope I'll at least have clear nights, because clear nights are currently a foreign concept to me... On the second lap, the hunt for the shimmering play of colors begins for me. The green fans dancing across the night sky. The hunt for the northern lights begins!
As always, you can view more pictures in the gallery.
