Now my second month in Iceland is over. There were still some amazingly beautiful days, but the temperatures continued to drop. There were also clear nights and a few surprises. Nevertheless, one should not forget that Iceland is an expensive pleasure.
Table of Contents
Second round
Northeast
I ended my first Conclusion in the northeast of Iceland. However, I haven't shown the highlights of this area yet. The lava fields of Dimmuborgir, the forest area of Ásbyrgi and Hljóðaklettar are perfect for beautiful short walks and if you want to relax, you can visit the natural baths of Mývatn. It's a region of Iceland that's well worth seeing and was also a surprise on my trip, as I knew nothing about the northeast beforehand. The weather was of course miserable, but I took advantage of the dry evening hours.
I didn't make many stops on the rest of the trip because I had already been to Akureyri once before. So, I was quickly back in Reykjavík. There, I put together a rough route for my second trip. The west coast of Iceland is a bit disappointing when you compare it to what the south, east, and northeast have to offer. Since the roads in the Westfjords are terrible at times, I didn't really want to go through that ordeal a second time. I drove my first lap counterclockwise and this time I'm driving clockwise. So, I'm quickly heading back to Akureyri, with a stopover on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, hoping to get a decent picture of Kirkjufell; of course, it didn't work...
Nevertheless, my odyssey continues.
Northern lights
With the weather once again not on my side, the days became a bit dull. But there were more and more clear nights and that's why I almost missed the Northern Lights just below the Arctic Circle, in Raufarhöfn. I waited in my car for about three hours at the Arctic Henge and when the extreme wind didn't improve, I drove to the campsite. After a quick trip to the restroom, the barely visible fog suddenly shimmered in shades of green and after a quick camera check, I drove to the parking lot as fast as I could and ran to the Arctic Henge. There, I met another photographer and we had a pleasant conversation while the sky turned green. The wind was still very strong, but if you set up your tripod as low as possible, you could take sharp pictures. It was a solar storm with a Kp-Index of only 2 out of 9, therefore you couldn't see much with the naked eye. Once I was satisfied with my pictures, I turned south and photographed the Milky Way. Without the northern lights, the Milky Way and star trails would have been my preferred technique, but the strong wind meant I had to abandon this plan too.
Some smaller hikes
Stórurð
Satisfied I continue to Egilsstaðir for a short hike that has only become popular among locals in recent years – the turquoise lagoon of Stórurð. The three most popular routes are about 5-8 km long in one direction. I took the shortest route (4.5 km), but it is the most difficult. It covers over 300 meters of elevation gain and you must cross four small rivers. Enough stones have been placed in the water, with a bit of acrobatics you can stay dry. Of course, this can change depending on the weather. It is safe to say that my weather conditions were not ideal. It wasn't raining, but the wind was very strong and the sky was very gray. During this short walk, I realized once again that it had been a while since I challenged myself physically. I was more exhausted than usual – maybe I had a slight cold? Anyway, you walk in the Dyrfjöll region and, when the visibility is better, you can see some beautiful peaks. Shortly before I arrived at the turquoise lagoon, the wind picked up again and a light drizzle set in. This immediately brought back memories of the Laugavegur hike. I didn't want to relive that experience... Fortunately, just over the last hill I was greeted by the emerald shimmering water. I took a photo and quickly returned the same way. The weather remained stable with light drizzle and strong winds. However, I did not take any risks and had a pleasant hiking experience.
In the meantime, there is no other way, a severe storm hit southeastern Iceland, which was also the case during the first round, but this time even parts of the ring road were destroyed. This is unfortunate because otherwise I would have to drive the entire west coast (a detour of about 1000 km) to reach Höfn.
Hengifoss
The next morning, I head to one of Iceland's classics – Hengifoss. It's a beautiful waterfall where you can see the different sediments perfectly. Of course, you must pay for parking (1000 ISK, as of October 2025) to walk this 5 km loop trail. It's a bit challenging, as you must climb less than 400 meters, but it's a very rewarding trail. In the evening, I spent the night in Iceland's largest forest area – Hallormsstaður. If the weather had been nice during the day, you could have taken some very beautiful walks in this area. But the biggest surprise was the night. The clouds were present, but with a Kp-Index of 4, there was still an impressive spectacle in the night sky. You could see the great curtains dancing with the naked eye.
After this impressive night, I continued along the east coast with a specific destination in mind: Vestrahorn, better known as Stokksnes Beach. On my first trip I spent two days there, completely shrouded in fog...
As mentioned briefly above, parts of the ring road were destroyed in this section. Fortunately, most of the water drained away and a repair team was sent as quickly as possible. This meant I didn't have to drive 1000 km to reach my next destination.
This time I stayed right next to the Viking Café instead of Höfn. For three days I was greeted by thick fog. One night there were even faint northern lights again, but without a clear view of Vestrahorn, I didn't even bother to take a picture. It was very disappointing that I couldn’t see this unique sight.
However, I was compensated for this in what is probably Iceland's best hiking area.
Vatnajökull
Skaftafell
Arrival
In Skaftafell I was also greeted by bad weather on my first tour, but at least I was able to take the short trip to Svartifoss in the evening. The 140 km drive from Vestrahorn to Skaftafell was something entirely uniqe – rain. However, the sun did come out in the afternoon. The Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon was quite crowded as usual, and the small ice blocks along Diamond Beach had completely drifted into the sea due to the recent heavy rainfall. One less thing to photograph...
The best thing to do however, is to ignore the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and drive 10 minutes further to visit the Fjallsárlón Glacier Lagoon. The lake and the ice blocks may not be as big, but you save on parking fees, crowds and you're also closer to the glacier. However, it's quite possible that this beautiful lagoon is just as crowded in high season.
After this relaxing experience, it's time to get moving again. Another classic in Iceland is Múlagljúfur Canyon. The most beautiful gorge you can discover. Of course, you must pay parking fees (1000 ISK, as of October 2025) and the route covers about 3.8 km and 315 meters of elevation gain in one direction. The weather was good, but the crowning pinnacle along the valley was hidden. The path is not easy; you walk on loose terrain the whole time and depending on the weather, through a lot of mud. You also must cross a moderate river. There are enough stones in the water, but you need a lot more acrobatics to stay dry. The route also becomes steeper towards the end. Nevertheless, I was full of energy and after a good half hour I had already reached the famous viewpoint. After a short break, I headed back down the same way. When I got back to the car, I kicked myself because by then even the last clouds had cleared. If I had taken a 20-minute break at the top, the crowning peak would have been in the picture too. Still, I can't complain about the result.
After that, I'll head to the familiar campsite in Skaftafell. For the next morning, there are two routes to choose from: S3/S4 or M2. According to the ranger, S3 is extremely wet and you should pack an extra pair of socks. My choice landed on M2. Rubber boots would have been the appropriate footwear... But before that, it rained heavily again during the night.
Day two
The next morning, I was greeted with glorious weather. It was probably the best weather I experienced in Iceland. Fully motivated I set off on my journey to the hidden glacier tongue – Morsárjökull. A circular route covering 20.9 km with moderate elevation gains. As the ranger hadn't given me any specific points to note, I naively set off on my hike wearing simple clothing. If you take the same route as I did, you start off the same way as to Svartifoss, but about 1 km before that, the routes separate. Svartifoss is located in a beautiful forest area and if you can put 1 + 1 together, that usually means grass at the edge of the path. It's October in Iceland and the temperature in the shade was around 0°C. In the morning the landscape was still covered in dew. The first few kilometers the path is wide, but it gradually narrows until you can only walk in single file. Well, you can guess what the result is... As I said, rubber boots would have been the only right choice...
The area then becomes a little swampy and there were several places where the path was completely flooded. Yeah, when descending the forest ridge, the water takes the quickest way down and this time that was the path. The water wasn't as high then and my socks didn't get any wetter during this forced river crossing, but the grass on the sides meant that my feet were constantly damp... Once you've conquered this hill, you reach the Morsá Valley. The way back is then over a bridge along the sand and gravel valley of the Morsá. When you arrive at this bridge and take the easy way back, you really stay dry. That's why I suspect that the ranger didn't notice anything, or that I'm just numb. Because at this bridge you've covered about 6 km, but there are still 4 km to go to the glacier and those 4 km weren't necessarily dry in my situation either. The path is wider again now, but there are still places where you brush against the grass. About halfway along, the valley on the right is marveled by waterfalls, some of which are relatively large. That's why there were three more places where the path turned into flowing water again.
Anyway, it’s a beautiful hike and experience. I didn't meet anyone on the entire circular trail and the moment when the valley narrows further and further, you are surrounded by several waterfalls on the right and see colorful rhyolite peaks on the left and finally you end up at the crystal-clear lake and see the small glacier tongue of Morsárjökull. Morsárjökull is a little special; there are many landslides there, which is why the lake will be completely covered by around 2040. The forecast is relatively accurate, as it was also predicted that the landslide would reach the lake in 2025 (according to the information board). In addition, the small waterfall on the horizon is actually the largest waterfall in Iceland. Morsárfoss was only discovered in 2007 and was named Iceland's largest waterfall in 2011.
If you have the time and the weather is reasonably good, I can highly recommend this hike. It became my favorite hike in Iceland, but there are still plenty of routes I haven't discovered yet. If you're looking for an even greater challenge, for probably the most beautiful views in Skaftafell, then you should try S4 to the summit of Kristínartindar. Not only can you see Morsárjökull, but also Skaftafellsjökull and most of the time the plateau of Vatnajökull.
Nevertheless, back at the car, I tried to dry everything as best I could. On top of that, I witnessed the clearest starry sky that night and we were even treated to faint northern lights. It was a complete surprise, which meant I couldn't go to my favorite photo spots.
Tour
The next stormy morning, but still with bright sunshine. If you're in Iceland, you have to visit an ice cave. On my Tour this plan was rounded off with a short glacier tour. I paid €127, but the price changes constantly because there are always different promotions. €127 is not cheap, but it was a tour where I felt I got my money's worth. There were many other tours I would have liked to go on. However, due to my unfortunate camera problem, I was even less inclined to spend up to €300 on an experience...
My 4-hour program starts in Skaftafell and after everyone has been given crampons, a climbing harness and a helmet, we take the highland bus to Falljökull. Not to be confused with the Fjallsárlón lagoon. I was the only one in my group with glacier experience, but since there is no climbing involved, it is no problem for almost everyone. After putting on the crampons, we first head to the small ice cave. You can currently walk about 8 m inside, but it will grow due to the flowing water. It really isn't too big. After that, you walk for about 1.5 – 2 hours on the glacier and learn about various things. The weather was nice, the wind calmed down a bit and after a beautiful tour I'm back at the car.
Final days
During my trip to Iceland, the weather is at most, pleasant for a maximum of 2.5 days, after which it must rain again. This pattern continues to burden me. I took another break in Vík, where it was wet every day and the gusts were so strong that a weather warning was even issued. This time, I wasn't even greeted with a beautiful sunset. It continues to be gray and wet. Finally, I will catch up on some small motifs along the Golden Circle before heading to Reykjavík one last time.
I spent 60 days in the far north. What can I say? The weather was worse than average, but I tried to make the most of the few hours of sunshine. The rugged Iceland leaves me torn. Is it the land of fire and ice, or is it the land of the most expensive bad weather?
For me it was a glimpse into a forgotten world. A world in which you must live with nature. Iceland's volcanoes will continue to erupt and shape the landscape. In Iceland, you learn how to compromise with these forces and you are aware on how quickly entire settlements can be destroyed.
I wish many other countries would show this respect and foresight for nature...
A glimpse into the future
After this trip into the past, I'm heading back to a modern metropolis. Norway's capital will be my home until at least 2026. I'll be working at the Christmas market in Oslo and will be able to live there almost for free in November and December. It's not a bad thing that I can improve my budget a little. But before that, I'll be exploring this capital city for two weeks out of my pocket.
Expenses
Iceland is an expensive destination and with costs of just under €9,000, it's tearing a hole in my budget. Half of the expenses are for the rental car and a significant portion is the expensive fuel (approx. €1,100). Of course, it didn't help that I drove 9,000 km. By comparison, I spent half a year in New Zealand for around €13,300 and drove 10,000 km. In 2023/24, the world was cheaper. A better comparison is this: deducting the rental car in Iceland and excluding flights for both trips. Then 2 months in Iceland cost around €4,400 and 6 months in NZ around €10,500; in other words, 1 month in Iceland €2,200 and 1 month in NZ €1,750. This also reinforces my conclusion. New Zealand is probably the perfect country to embark on your first Working Holiday. The visa isn't the easiest to get, but you'll be greeted with “stable” weather, beautiful scenery and fair prices. In New Zealand, you can find nice campsites for less than €10. In Iceland, you pay at least €10 (more like €15) for an uneven spot with a toilet... The price of electricity is also extortionate, at a minimum €10.50, even though Iceland has an electricity price of less than 20 cents per kWh (as of October 2025). In other words, €10 buys you 50 kWh and you really must try hard to use 15 kWh when camping... Of course, the minimum wage is higher in Iceland, but I don't understand why there is a minimum 50% surcharge for camping and parking. Nevertheless, Iceland is still a wonderful experience. If you want to see everything, I suggest a trip lasting 5 – 6 weeks. Either early September to mid-October, or if you don't mind missing out on the Northern Lights, early May to mid-June are the preferred travel times.
Expenses including flight €8,847.64. Information provided without guarantee.
As always, you can view more pictures in the gallery.
