Every Austrian should climb the Grossglockner once - the highest peak in the land of mountains. Due to severe glacier shrinkage, this adventure is becoming increasingly difficult and is not recommended without a mountain guide. Below I share my impressions of the Top of Austria - Grossglockner.
Table of Contents
General information
Austria's highest mountain has always fascinated our people. The pyramid with its double peak stands in the heart of the Hohe Tauern National Park and towers almost alone above the sea of 3000 m peaks. This sight is also adorned with a legendary road, the Grossglockner High Alpine RoadIt was completed in 1935 and is now a popular excursion destination as well as a starting point for climbing the 3,798 m high peak. There are many different routes up the Grossglockner, a good overview can be found on the Bergfuehrer Kals website.
As the glacier continues to recede, the route of the first ascenders offers a very good alternative. The (historic) Salmhuette was built in 1799 for the two first ascent expeditions. This makes it the oldest refuge in the Eastern Alps. The natural science elite of the time gathered here around the organizer and patron, Prince-Bishop Count Salm Reifferscheidt. Led by local farmers, they reached the summit in July 1800. This route from the Glocknerhaus on the Carinthian side of the Grossglockner leads past the Magaritzenspeichersee to the Stockerscharte and finally to the Salmhütte (2,644 m). You then head over the Hohenwartkees, the Hohenwartscharte and the Hoffmannskees up to the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte (3,454 m). From the Adlersruhe, take the normal route via the Glocknerleitl, the Kleinglockner and the Glocknerscharte to the summit.
No matter which route you choose, you are in a high alpine area and should therefore be in good physical condition, sure-footed and have sufficient experience!
Equipment
(Source: https://www.grossglockner-bergfuehrer.at)
This comes in the 25 to max. 35 liter backpack:
- Water- and windproof trousers (in case it rains)
- Water- and windproof jacket (as the wind sometimes blows on the mountain)
- Primaloft or down jacket (if it gets really cold)
- Thick hat (your head cools down the most)
- Thin gloves (to protect your hands)
- Thick gloves (to keep your fingers warm at all times)
- Extra shirts (get out of your sweaty clothes in the hut)
- Headlamp (necessary in the hut and for an early start)
- Hut sleeping bag (so that you feel comfortable in the hut blankets)
- Mobile phone (there is also recepetion on the mountain)
- Cash (unfortunately the card does not work on the mountain)
- AV ID (so that you get a discount for the overnight stay)
- Small towel and toothbrush kit (for the minimum of hygiene)
- Small sunscreen (at least SPF 30)
- Lip balm (as the radiation is somewhat higher on the mountains)
- Small first aid kit (if you have one)
- Water bottle (1 - 2 liters, as you can refill at the huts)
- Some granola bars (you will ba at a hut every 3 hours)
What you wear on you body:
- Hiking socks
- Long functional underwear
- Vest (if available)
- Trekking trousers
- Softshell jacket
- Thin hat
- Sunglasses (min. UV 400, good coverage)
- Hiking boots class C to D (for crampons)
- Telescopic hiking poles (optional)
I would not climb the Grossglockner without a mountain guide. It is already very exposed and a lot of climbing. Additionally, you get the technical equipment from the mountain guide at the hut, which saves you weight. However, if you really want to go alone you need to take crampons, helmet, climbing harness and safety equipment with you.
My experience
First day
I have already been on many hikes and of course, climbing the Grossglockner has always been a goal of mine. Now I was able to achieve this goal via the route of the first ascenders. As described above, this is an increasingly popular alternative to the normal route and probably the most scenic route. We booked our mountain guidehere. The costs are of course not low, but for the additional safety it is not a trifle worth mentioning. As I was aware that I would rarely take this route, I naturally took my camera with lens and tripod with me. The tripod accompanied me as far as the Salmhuette, but the camera was then at 3,798 m.
We started from the Glocknerhaus in glorious weather. The path leads over the beautiful Magaritzenspeichersee, but the closer you get to the Stockerscharte, the better you can see the depressing state of the Pasterze. There is already almost nothing left of the glacier tongue and the Pasterze will probably have completely melted away in about 10 years. But since Austria is to remain an oil and car country and our climate policy is being completely thrown overboard, this agonizing death is predestined for us... As soon as you have crossed the Stockerscharte, you no longer have to look at this tragedy.
The route now follows a relatively pleasant path through the beautiful Leitertal valley and with a bit of luck, you may even spot golden eagles. In any case, you will be accompanied by many marmots until you reach the Salmhuette. There you greet your mountain guide and adjust all your technical equipment to the right size. Afterwards, you end the first day in the shadow of the Grossglockner.
Second day
The next morning we were on our feet at 4:10 a.m. so that we could start the hike up and down at 5 a.m. on time. Unfortunately, I was only able to take a few photos of the beautiful morning hours. From the Salmhuette the path to the Hohenwartscharte is not too difficult. Here you walk along the old glacier valley on loose ground until you reach a wall, where you put on your climbing harness. This passage was completely refitted with steps and rope safety devices in 2007. Nevertheless, it is a very steep ascent and also a first test for the Glocknerleitl.
Once you have overcome this hurdle, you continue on snow fields to the next ridge. Here you are well secured again and soon you have reached the first stopover - the highest hut in Austria, the Adlersruhe. After a very short rest, the technical part begins and the moment I rarely took out my camera. After the Adlersruhe you reach a very steep snow field, which ends again in front of a wall - the Glocknerleitl. Here you have to climb with crampons. Once at the top, take them off and now there are only two more hurdles to the summit. The Kleinglockner and the infamous Glocknerscharte.
Climbing the Kleinglockner is not as strenuous as the Glocknerleitl, there are very good holds and enough space to let other people pass. Shortly before the Glocknerscharte the space becomes tight because you go up onto the ridge. Climb down a little and you are already at the key point of the ascent - the Glocknerscharte. There you walk about 4 m unsecured on a very narrow path, to the left it goes 1000 m into the abyss and to the right it goes into the Pallavicinirinne. Joa, a brief moment of discomfort.
After this key section you are rewarded with the most beautiful climbing and shortly afterwards you stand on the Top of Austria and are greeted by the iconic summit cross of the Grossglockner.
After this 5-hour feat of strength, you only linger briefly at the summit and climb down the same route. The Glocknerleitl is very strenuous downhill and we also caught up with another group and therefore had to wait again and again. In addition, an old mountain guide was stressed and had to overtake everyone there with his companion. As a result, I got a nice iron tooth in my calf...
After this painful moment we arrived at the bottom and crossed the steep snow field again and stopped for a drink at the Adlersruhe. Over another ridge and another snow field, where you can already feel your legs, you reach the Hohenwartscharte, which didn't get any easier. Once at the bottom, you can take off your climbing harness and walk back down the old glacier valley to the Salmhuette. After a pure walking time of 9 hours, you can take off your backpack and “enjoy” your Gipfelschnaps. After my throat has been burned, I return the rental equipment and say goodbye to my mountain guide and now you can either descend straight to the Glocknerhaus or spend another night at the peaceful Salmhuette.
Third day
The next morning I took advantage of the shimmering colors of the sky and even happened to find the symbol of the Alpine Club - the Edelweiss.
Conclusion
What can I say; the Grossglockner is still a popular destination for mountain sports enthusiasts, not only in Austria, but also in Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland. We were very lucky with the weather and the time. With such perfect weather, the rush to the Top of Austria was rather small. In addition, our mountain guide was really great, very sociable and conscientious.
It is a truly unique experience. Nevertheless, you should be aware of the risks and if you are climbing the Grossglockner for the first time, a mountain guide is a must. The route is already very exposed and technically challenging.
As always, you can view more pictures in the gallery.
