The Southland is complete, now the west coast “The Coast of New Zealand” will be my next destination and it’s already starting with an absolute highlight, Fiordland.
Table of Contents
Until Fiordland
After my short stay on Stewart Island, to experience the Rakiura Great Walk. I took a short break. I slept in Riverton and Mossburn, here my perfect weather streak got scrambled. It even hailed in Riverton.
But if the Fiordland, with 200 rain days and 7 to 9 meter rain, is within your grasp you can prepare yourself. For reference, in the amazon rainforest it’s raining less!
Kepler Track
Preparation
The next Great Walk is before. There will be no guide, because the planning is basically the same. You need to be fortunate with the booking and just hire a taxi from you start- and endpoint. Regarding the booking, naturally I wasn’t unfortunate and had to stay another night in the tent. But this time my packing list is completely optimized, less would be impossible.
No extra clothes, just rain jacket and something to keep warm. I left my power bank and the 3l drinking bubble in the car. A 1l saucepan instead of 2l, gas cooker, only a 1.5l water bottle and the rest of the camping gear. That’s how I managed to save 3 to 4 kg. I still have to walk two 25km section and on the first day a gain of over 1200m.
Day one
Joa, after I got dropped off the water taxi, my hike started at 9 a.m. from Brod Bay. It reads 4.3h Luxmore Hut and 10h Iris Burn Hut/Camp; a scary sign. During my hike the weather was meh, it was a bit cold, but stayed dry at least.
The first part goes through a forest. It’s a constant and gradual climb and you only notice the 800m altitude gain at the prompt decline of trees. The last stroll to the hut is left. Here the alpine experience starts.
It's a wonderful path and more often than not the alpine parrot Kea is your partner. Concerning Kea, you must not feed them! They are very intelligent and want to play often. Store your things safe, a zip is not an obstacle. If you’re unlucky you will leave the alpine part with holes in your gear. But you can still take photos of them.
When I was young I painfully learned that a constant speed makes you fast, not sprint – break – sprint – etc., that’s how I reached Luxmore Hut after only 2h. Because of the cold I didn’t pause for to long, I don’t want to lose my heat. You continue on a very nice ridge. There’re two very exposed parts where the wind wants to pick you up. Moreover, you could take a small detour (sign says 10 min) to Mt. Luxmore. But on my arrival the fog was blocking the views and therefore saved my energy and continued on.
After passing the second emergency shelter, you descend into the abyss. All your gain is going down. A short while later, you’re again surrounded by woods. The alpine section is left behind.
I reached my destination after 25.5km and a bit under 6h. I thought that the 10h are a plentiful estimate, that’s why I was planning 7 to 8h; but I gladly take the 6h. After I set up my tent I was going to Iris Burn Falls (sign says 20 min).
At 6:30 p.m. we had a short briefing with the warden. He explained us the Kea shenanigans, it’s not unlikely that you will leave with a leaking tent. The sandflies from the deepest chasm of hell, every microscopic diameter of my uncovered skin was tortured, not kidding! And the weather warning for the night. Very strong rain and wind from 9 p.m. to 6 a.m.
Leider hat sich diese Prophezeiung bewahrheitet. Wirkliche Unmengen an Regen, ich bin irgendwie während der Nacht trocken geblieben. Alles bis auf den Rucksack war durchnässt, selbst das Zeltinnere war nass. Die Tongariro Alpine Crossing war zwar meine kälteste Wanderung, dafür war der Kepler Track einfach nass! Somit ging es für mich mit gefühlt 2kg extra Last zu Rainbow Reach.
Day two
Anyway, I slept remarkably well and because of the storm the Keas didn’t attack us. After the alpine part you traverse a rainforest. Only at one section you break through an open valley; Big Slip. Here you’ve magnificent views onto the nearby cliffs and because of our cyclone last night, I got rewarded with countless waterfalls. A rainbow stretched through the valley, but ended in black clouds. No photos for me I guess, the forest is calling.
Back in the protecting woods, I delved into my childhood. The dense forest with mossy big trees, shrouded in fog. Only the predator traps are waking me up from this fairytale dream. You will find plenty of nice spots.
After 5 exhausting hours (signs says 7.5h) along the Waiau River (better known as the river Anduin), I arrived at Rainbow Reach. The place were my shuttle is picking me up. The last +10km of the track are following the forest. Therefore, you don’t miss too much. But if you’re lucky with the huts, nothing is against the full circular hike.
It's safe to say that I arrived way to early. The weather was fine and I used my chance to dry my gear.
The Kepler Track is truly a Great Walk! One of the most beautiful tramps I ever did. If you’re fortunate enough and have the time, you shouldn’t miss out on this treat.
Milford Sound
My camping site is Cascade Creek, the last possibility and around half way to Milford Sound. Here Weka will wake you, or accompany your breakfast. The 120km long Highway 94 is counted among the most beautiful dead ends in the world, I remark this as true. At the beginning it’s a bit boring but after Eglinton Valley the magic spreads.
Day one
The mountains are reaching further into the sky and the cliffs crash down into the abyss. Besides lakes you will grasp countless waterfalls, because of the rainy weather. The fog limited the sight, but it still was spectacular. The moment you leave Homer Tunnel is breathtaking! The morning fog strengthen the scene, the weather was sunny in the afternoon, but decide yourself which picture you favor:
After around 30 minutes I arrived at the end of the street. The Fiordland is a tourism magnet and Milford Sound is the destination No. 1, therefore I expected high parking fees. But seeing the expense with my own eyes was hurtful for my backpacker saving addiction; 10 NZD per hour. Moreover, booked a boat cruise for 145 NZD. A expensive pleasure!
Because of the weather I could experience Milford Sound in all it’s glory. Many hidden waterfalls on sunny days and the fog sets the right atmosphere. Concerning motifs I prefer Aoraki / Mt. Cook, but the experience was greater here. Really do a scenic boat cruise, it’s a worthy adventure. Aoraki / Mt. Cook besser gefallen, aber das Erlebnis war hier auf jeden Fall größer. Unbedingt eine Bootsfahrt unternehmen, dass war ein wirklich lohnendes Abenteuer.
This is how I conclude my first day in the northern Fiordland. I had enough rain the last days, hopefully the weather will be sunny tomorrow. I’m going to hike to Lake Marian and Key Summit Track.
Day two
During the night I was awoken by the mating scream of a male Kiwi. It will be interesting what thing is going to disturb my next rest. Anyway, my wish was granted and I got blessed with emperor worthy weather. Perfect to completed both 3h tramps.
I climbed up the Key Summit Plateau in the morning. The first part of the Routeburn Great Walk. A great loss that I wasn’t fortunate enough with the bookings. A beautiful alpine landscape of the split mountain range of three. On top you have magnificent views and you could already scout my next destination, Lake Marian.
For this tramp you will travel to the beautiful Hollyford Valley, sadly I found the Hollyford Track to late. Would’ve been a nice multi-day hike along the Hollyford River. But because of the Great Walks, I was planning too far. The Lake Marian Track can be split into two section. The first one is leading to the viewing point of the Marian Falls and the second is going up to the lake.
The second section was a sensation for me, no additional help along the path. You can only reach the top through roots and stones. A premier in New Zealand! And the way is not easy. For a long time you go up a rain draining and you have to balance on top of stones to keep your feet dry. Moreover, there’re many high natural steps, use your hands. Regrettably, there’s no warning that this tramp is nothing for inexperienced. You will meet many wearing unpractical shoes, sturdy boots are a rare sight to behold. Jeans or other useless trousers are dominating the views too.
Some passages are not easily seen, take your time and locate the orange markers! You don’t want to waste half an hour climbing up an old rocky river bank; not that this happened…
Back on the right track I was surprised upon losing the gift of sight some moments ago. Everything is clearly marked. After this “shortcut” I was finally rewarded with an emerald shimmering lake.
Sometimes I don’t understand the Kiwis, there’re some many routes where nature is brutally modified, just that everyone arrives at the destination. But at Lake Marian the way is ending in the forest. I’m not the first upon this track and you spot many paths which lead around the lake.
Doubtful Sound
The night was quiet and my adventure through the northern Fiordland is coming to an end. Although I complained about the high prices at Milford Sound, I booked another boat trip. Doubtful Sound für 380 NZD (Stand Jänner 2024); dafür muss man keine Parkgebühren zahlen. Teuer, aber die Tour geht auch 7 bis 8h, also ein Tagesausflug und Rast brauch ich sowieso.
You set sail in Manapouri and first of all you cross the lake with the same name. After approximately 50 min you arrive at Wilson Pass. A historic tramping trail which got converted into a street for the building of a 850MW water power plant. It takes another hour with photo breaks to reach the other end.
Now the 3h boat cruise through Doubtful Sound is waiting. Maybe not as scenic as Milford Sound, but you will enjoy green woods and steep cliffs. Dolphins swimming directly in front of us, honoured this day. The afternoon weather was perfect and if you have the budget and time, nothing is stopping you from this tour.
I cannot pick a favorite between Aoraki and Fiordland. The west coast is still ahead of me and we will see what a Franz Josef & Fox Glacier or the Nelson region delivers.
As always, you can view more pictures in the gallery.
