Queenstown, Glenorchy & Wanaka

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Queenstown, Glenorchy & Wanaka

My journey is continuing on the west Coast. Queenstown, Glenorchy and Wanaka are next.

Table of Contents

Glenorchy

After the 120km long dead end in Milford Sound I’m visiting the next dead end. Glenorchy can be reached through Queenstown and the road is following Lake Wakatipu. A nice street with even more beautiful views and enough viewpoints.

In the shadow of Mount Earnslaw and the Dart mountain range is the small town of Glenorchy. This is a unique scenery and Sir Peter Jackson was thinking the same. The Backcountry of Glenorchy is called Paradise. The ending of the Routeburn Great Walk and Greenstone Track is the location of Isengard, Lothlorien, Fangorn Forest, mountains of Moria, Caradhras and the forest scene at the end of the Fellowship of the Ring in The Lord Of The Rings. And the views from Paradise don’t disappoint.

Naturally I drove the deepest road into the valley. My car didn’t let me down and after crossing 4 fords I arrived at the parking lot of the Dart River Track. The gravel street is not in the best shape and if you drive a rented car you should check the contract beforehand. Because of the good weather I walked the first hour of the Dart River upstream. I was thinking about doing the whole track, but because of unknown reason decided against it; not my best plan. It’s a wonderful valley with really nice views. The track ends either in the West Matukituki Valley after an alpine crossing over Cascade Saddle, or you go the Rees River valley downstream. We talk about the Cascade Saddle later.

Tangatas Journeys - Paradise
Paradise

Diamond Lake was my Camp and I wanted to snap some nice pictures of the Dart Glacier on the next morning. Sadly I was shrouded in fog. Sobering I was heading for Queenstown.

Queenstown

The adrenaline capital of New Zealand. Queenstown is not a very big town, but you can easily find booking offices for versatile activities like skydiving etc. Definitely a cool adventure, but as a backpacker you need a second thought for such expensive pleasures. Anyway, I don’t understand all the talking and tourism heaps of Queenstown. It’s a small town located on a lake, nothing extraordinary. Everything is squished together and you have to pay near a 3 digit sum for a night.

I planned a second day in Queenstown, the must do hike, Ben Lomond is waiting. That’s what I at least thought, it rained the whole day and this day trip was obsolete. The good views around Queenstown won’t be happening. Sobering I continue my journey to Wanaka, after a short stop in Arrowtown.

Tangatas Journeys - Beach of Queenstown
The coast of Queenstown

Wanaka

The best route to Wanaka is over the Crown Range, a saddle road connecting the two ski resorts. It’s summer, therefore hiking boots not ski. Initially I wanted to complete a 8h walk yesterday and planned two rest days in Wanaka. In the evening a proved my genius and left my toilet bag in Queenstown. Another back and forth over the Crown Range I guess. After this exciting drive I visited #ThatWanakaTree. The tree on the edge of the lake which won a competition in 2014. Sunset is done, sunrise and milky way is left.

Not much happened on the second day, in Wanaka there are not many things to do. After a visit at the Lavender Farm packed my backpack and drove to my camp. The most dangerous route I will do in New Zealand is next.

Tangatas Journeys - Doorway in lavender fields
Doorway in lavender fields

West Matukituik Valley

The Backcountry of Wanaka is the Mt. Aspiring National Park. The gravel road is pretty much the same compared to Glenorchy. I’m not going to ascend to Mt. Aspiring, but hike the trails with the best views. Day one French Ridge Hut, doorway to Mt. Aspiring. Day two visiting Liverpool Hug, doorway to Mt. Barff and ascending back to Aspiring Hut. Day three Cascade Saddle, as mentioned above and on the next day back to the car park.

French Ridge Hut

Let’s begin with the 1480m high French Ridge Hut. You 14km into the valley and here the path splits. Left you can reach the Liverpool Hut on the height of 1100m and right over the river you go up the French Ridge. The 14km are easy with just a little elevation change. But you have to cross many small side streams.

I left the car at 8 a.m. and after 2h arrived at Aspiring Hut. I knew that it should rain a bit around 10 a.m., a bit is the key word. After waiting 2 hours in the hut, I ignored the rain and continued my way to the fork, Pearl Flat. After half an hour I was soaked, the rain jacket is really good the upper body was dry, but my feet were swimming and I didn’t even cross a river. Shortly before Pearl Flat the path follows the upper bank of the river. Sadly a great chunk has broken away and you could either walk through the dense forest and hope to find the clearing. Or you go down the stream and walk along the narrow dry part of the lower bank. You will see the path easier at the second option, just hold your balance, otherwise you will go for a swim.

Arriving at Pearl Flat I looked into the sky and watch the weather. I couldn’t see my ridge and the rain is not getting better. Currently my altitude is 500m, 1000m over 3km and 1km of them along the dangerous ridge without protection is left. Wind reaching up to 70 km/h is not in my advantage either. Now I had the choice to go on, or turn back. As mentioned above you want to do this tracks for the views, but if you cannot see the ridge which supposedly is only 30m away, you won’t get a glimpse of Mt. Aspiring. Therefore I turned my back onto the ridge and was walking back to Aspiring Hut. I’m pretty sure that I would have reached the hut, but the weather should not get any better tomorrow and it’s not worth the risk. On my way back I slipped on the mere angled rocks… An extra night in Aspiring Hut it is.

Day two

Sadly the weather is even worse and a stroll up to Liverpool Hut is useless. Although you are greeted with blue skies and sun on the northern side, the western valley to Pearl Flat is black. If the wind could stop I will try the alpine crossing over the 1800m high Cascade Saddle. I’m certain that Wanaka is unreachable in this kind of rain because the fords are to high.

Cascade Saddle

Warning: Only to this route with good mountaineering expertise, extremely dangerous and enhanced technique is a must!

French Ridge was only meant as Prelude. Cascade Saddle is a very dangerous alpine pass. Cascade Pylon is situated above 1800m. Therefore altitude gain of 1400m in 4km from Aspirin Hut. Only try this route with good knowledge and alpine know how.

Naturally the rain didn’t get any better, but the wind stopped at least. That’s why I started my hike at 8 a.m. You begin in the forest and you’re mostly good covered from rain. Take your time still, you hike over many roots and stones, which don’t deliver the best grip. Near the tree line the path is overgrown and it will continue for another +300m gain. Leaving the bush you now face steep rocky terrain. Sometimes you have to climb short near 90° walls, hands are your friends.

Even though the rain stopped, the sight was still far from good. Have at least on marked pylon in your view, either the way down or up! Near the top you will reach a sign which says, Extreme Care many fatalities occurred past this point. The sign should have been set up was earlier. Personally the signed section was not as dangerous like the way before. After one last climb you reach Cascade Pylon.

Now the path continues into a small valley. The west flank is open again and you’re completely exposed to it. I was greeted with wind and light sleet. Moreover fog was growing and that’s why I turned around, I have to see the markings on my descend. The way down is even more dangerous. Take your time and at some section just slide down on your butt, effective and safe. I was fortunate to outgo the fog, so I could see the way alright; I still didn’t have any nice views. The fog stuck at around 1500m and the eastern valley to the parking lot was clear. A gathering of Keas followed my down into the forest.

Tangatas Journeys - Shrouded in fog
Shrouded in fog during my descent

If you think the hard part is over, then you’re in the wrong. The roots and stones were very slippery and slip on them many times. After 5,25h I was back at the hut, my feet were completely soaked. Shortly afterwards I packed my stuff and was heading for my car. I was uncertain about the weather tomorrow and didn’t want to get stuck in a ford.

I completed the hardest part of this alpine pass, but I don’t recommend anybody to try this in my conditions. The mountains will still stand in an eternity. Wait for fortunate weather or for a better physical form. If the conditions are bad, have the courage to turn around; this is not a shame!

Slightly sobering I ended my adventure in Mt. Aspiring National Park. On this journey will shall not meet again.

Roy’s Peak

50km further east the weather was splendid and because I couldn’t attempt the must do hike in Queenstown, I don’t want to miss my chance of the must do hike in Wanaka; Roy’s Peak. I fought for it on the same day.

Some lines further up I wrote about the reasonable and proper way in the alps and now I’m doing such a stupidity. In the words of Jeremy Clarkson: “Sometimes my Genius is … it’s almost frightening”. It seems that 27km and a gain of 1400m was not enough. I have two excuses for this: 1. You want to experience Roy’s Peak at sunset. 2. I know my body very well and if hiking above 25km my body will arch anyway. That’s why I saw this as a personal challenge.

Hiking boots are completely wet and my toes have seen better days, that’s why I chose sandals. On a path like this it’s no problem. You walk up a street made out of sturdy sand, with somewhat steep section. In comparison to my morning ground this felt like a highway. In every other condition this hike would’ve been easy, but this time it was a though fight. You reach the peak after 8km and a gain of 1250m. Luckily you reach the main attraction after only 6.5km and a 1100m gain… The viewpoint is a unique photo spot. But I nearly vomited on the way up.

I arrived at my destination after a torturing myself for 2h and the golden hour is at hand. Naturally, you will meet some people with the same idea. So a greeting home was nothing in between. Luckily you cannot cipher the text (I want to have a bit of anonymity), but the according group will notice what shirt I’m wearing.

Tangatas Journeys - Greetings to home
Greeting to home

Was it worth all the suffering? Absolutely not! How stupid you have to be do to this idiocy? But the fortune was on my side and on the descent got blessed with the most phenomenal blue hour. Every evening I stayed in Wanaka I noticed the beautiful evening sky. I don’t know why, but the superior geography of Wanaka is creating these colorful skies. But this evening can’t be phrased in words. I never experienced such an intense pink and blue. The lake was shimmering in glistening pink, even the your skin reflected the same color. A magnificent view, which cannot be framed in a single snapshot. You have to experience yourself, to justify this colorful dream. A healing balm for my joints, a priceless moment.

I arrived completely dead at my car. 40km, over 2500m gain and 54000 steps, this is a record which I will not succeed anytime soon, if ever. The pain on the next day is okay. Every step hurts, but I expected worse. I used the morning hours to shoot another picture of the Wanaka tree. The colors were very weak and therefore played a bit with my editing program. A milky way shot and we’re done.

Tangatas Journeys - #ThatWanakaTree night
Wanaka Tree night

In this picture you can see what impact another light source provides. Unfortunately the angle of the milky way was to high. The other factors like moon phase were perfect.

As always, you can view more pictures in the gallery.

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